Straight-of-grain Waistband Made Easy

If you enjoy sewing apparel, chances are that you'll encounter waistbands cut on the straight-of-grain frequently, especially with the popularity of separates in our wardrobes. In fact, so many of our garments have waistbands, and we open and close them so often, we tend to take them for granted. So let's take a look at why these waistbands deserve closer attention, and how to sew perfect ones.

Functions of a waistband

Waistbands are one way to finish the top edge of skirts, pants, and other separates. They're also part of the opening that provides entry for the garment. And perhaps most importantly, they anchor the garment at or near the waist. This small strip of fabric performs a big job: a waistband "carries" the entire garment.

Structuring waistbands

Because of these various functions, it's very important that waistbands are supported properly, which is accomplished through interfacing the waistband fabric. There are many interfacing materials that can be used, and the best one to choose depends on the amount of support and structure that's required for the particular garment style, fabric, and width of waistband. (Typically, wider waistbands need more support than narrower ones.) By experimenting with fusible interfacing, sew-in interfacings, and products specifically made for making waistbands, you'll discover which give you the results you like the most with specific fabrics and styles.

Selecting a waistband interfacing

The best way to choose which interfacing product to use for the inner support of a waistband is to make several test samples for each garment you make. Simply apply a few different interfacings to scraps of fabric after you've cut out the garment. With your fingers, feel the difference between the samples. You can also make a practice waistband if you want to make sure the interfacing in question will do a perfect job. Place the practice waistband around your body and try bending over and sitting. Does it keep it's shape or does it fold over? Is it too stiff? Does it feel comfortable? You'll also want to take into account what kind of wear the garment will receive; what kind of cleaning process the garment will undergo; and what type of closure the waistband will have.




Waistband materials

Waistbands are usually cut from the same fabric as the garment. Patterns generally call for the length of the waistband to be cut using the fabric's length-of-grain. This is preferable because the cross-grain normally has more inherent give than the length-of-grain. For design purposes, waistbands can be made from contrasting fabrics, or even from ribbon or other trims.

How wide should a waistband be? Most frequently, waistbands are either 1-1/4" wide or 1-1/2" wide, but there is no rule that says you must make your waistbands either of these widths. Some people like a narrower waistband - even as narrow as 3/8"; others prefer a wider waistband - 2" or more. Both comfort and style (design) will influence how narrow or wide you choose to make your waistbands.

Getting a comfortable circumference. Some people prefer snug waistbands and others prefer a looser fit. Commercial patterns have approximately 1" of ease in the waistband pattern (i.e., the finished waistband will be 1" larger than the waist measurement for the given size). But people's preferences vary a lot: some people like their waistbands equal to their actual waist measurement; some like their waistbands larger than their waist measurement; and some people like their waistbands smaller than their waist measurement. This is a personal choice - and part of the benefit of getting custom tailored garments is that you can make a waistband fit exactly how you like it!

Waistband closures

Some people choose a buttonhole and button closure, while others prefer a skirt/pants hook and eye (this is a flat hook-and-eye set that is about 1/2" long). The choice is yours, depending on the look you want to create. Using a hook-and-eye closure results in a very clean looking garment, while buttons can be a decorative element.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Types Of Wool

Merino

The Merino is the most economically influential breed of sheep in the world, prized for its wool. Superfine Merinos are regarded as having the finest and softest wool of any sheep.

Merino sheep produce a clean, white fleece ideal for dying to clear, fresh colours, while the long, fine fibres can be spun to the finest count, woven into the finest fabric and tailored into the finest suits.

The wool has characteristic crimp and elasticity, creating unparalleled style, drape, comfort and performance for the wearer. The handle and lustre is of exceptional softness and kindness to the touch, unlike any other fibre.

For hundreds of years, Merino flocks were the exclusive property of the Spanish Crown and wealthy nobles. King Alfonso of Spain forbade the export of Merino from the 14th Century for over 400 years because of the wool’s value to the Spanish economy. In the 18th Century, the King of Spain gave the finest of these coveted flocks to the powerful rulers in Saxony, France and Great Britain. This gift of Kings was eventually shipped to the farthest reaches of the world, including South Africa, Argentina, New Zealand and Australia, where the treasured Merino sheep flourished.




The refined, unique Merino fleece is shorn once a year and is analyzed for micron, colour and brightness, comfort, fibre length and strength amongst other measures of quality. The fineness of Merino wool is measured by its micron value: the lower the number, the finer and better the quality.

Cashmere

The Cashmere goat is to be found principally on the cold and dry highlands of Central Asia at 3,000 to 5,000metres above sea level. From here the wool travels across India and past the Himalayan Mountains, to China, where it is distributed to mills throughout the western world.

Cashmere was first discovered by the nobility of Victorian England and subsequently became one of the most prestigious fibres of the noble fibre family. The low bulk, high loft fibres combine to make the warmest, most comfortable garments money can buy. In softness, warmth and fineness of fibre cashmere is comparable to Vicuna. Cashmere is appropriate for all climates as the high moisture absorbency rate allows the fibres to maintain their insulation properties in varying conditions of relative humidity. The finest fibres are gathered from the saddle of the Cashmere goat and are harvested by carefully combing the goat’s fleece during the spring months. Cashmere cloths are luxurious with a soft and seductive handle, beautiful drape and timeless appeal.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Make Your Own Custom Clothes Patterns

How to make your own custom clothes patterns. If you don't have the perfectly symmetrical body that clothing patterns are designed for, then this article will help you to alter them so they look custom made.

When you look at someone whose clothes fit perfectly, do you wonder what their secret is? It really isn't a secret, it is knowing how to custom fit patterns so you, too can have clothes that fit perfectly. Perhaps one shoulder is higher than the other, or perhaps one arm is bigger around than the other. Many minor physical differences can be made unnoticeable when your clothing fits.

You can do this in one of two ways, it is your choice depending upon your skill as a seamstress and the amount of time you have.

In the first method, you simply use a lightweight cotton fabric (such as sheeting) cut the pattern out and sew using basting stitches. Alter the garment as needed and then take the basting stitches out and use the altered cloth as a pattern.

In the second method, you first measure yourself, or have a friend help you. Measure both left and right sides of your body, and front and back on the left and right. You will end up with measurements that you can use to draw an accurate picture of yourself.

Use a dressmaker's dummy, or if one is not available, a large piece of paper to draw an accurate rendition of you, down the the inch. Now lay your pattern pieces on the drawing, notice where dart lines, waist measurements, underarm seams, etc., fall. If they don't land where you need them to, then adjust the pattern by adding or taking away. Darts can be moved up down, left and right. Waistlines can be lowered or raised. If the pattern does not fit across you can add a little extra.




Where possible, work from the center of the pattern to help keep the pieces symmetrical. Also remember that any changes to one piece will change any other pieces that attach to the one you changed. So if you change a neckline don't forget to adjust both front and back necklines, and any collars or facings.

After you have adjusted the pattern to fit you, cut out your material and sew it with basting stitches. Try on the garment to insure that the fit is what you want. Make any other adjustments before sewing with finished stitching.

For a more professional, custom made look follow the tips here. When you finish seams, make sure they are straight and even, finish the inside of the garment, attach buttons with several neat stitches. Tack down facings with hand stitches where seams are at the shoulder and the front. Pressing after each seam will insure a more professional look in the finished garment. When you have sewn the last button on, and are finished with the garment, wash it as you would normally, give it a final damp press and it is ready to wear.

Your garment will look as if it were expensively custom tailored to fit you, because it was. As you become more experienced with adjusting patterns you will find it takes the same amount of time as when you just stitched up the pattern as it came. Don't forget to remeasure yourself periodically, since we all change our shapes depending upon season, age etc. Enjoy your new clothing.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Mandarin Suit

The mandarin suit is less well known than its relatives, the Italian, British and American styles of mens suits, but it is the perfect attire for some occasions. Inspired by the lines of menswear in the east, this suit style might not be what you would choose for a highly formal occasion, but it has its place among the business suits in many a savvy dresser's wardrobe.

If you are unfamiliar with the concept of the mandarin suit, think of the Nehru jacket, or the jackets worn by the rather more controversial Chairman Mao. Imported into western tradition, mandarin style mens suits have found their way into business suit ranges, and even into the realms of formal wear, including tuxedo design.

The hallmark of the mandarin style is the collar on the jacket. This is a small, upright collar band. It does not fold over, in the sense in which we are more used to understanding the word "collar" in western traditions. If you have never seen this style you might be surprised to see how they have been taken up by contemporary designers, in the western world as well as their eastern homeland.

The modern mandarin collar suit has the elegance you might expect if you are familiar with the lines of oriental art. The jacket is sleek, snug and simple-without fussiness or unnecessary detail. Depending on the materials and colors used, the suit can be just as stylish as a designer suit by a big name Italian designer, and has earned its place in the pantheon of business suits. In light colours and linen and similar fabrics, this style of suit can also be summery and elegantly casual.




The look of these mens suits is clean and minimalist, with the jacket often substantially longer than jacket of a conventional suit. Without the V-shaped "gorge" of the conventional suit, the mandarin jacket will usually also have a number of buttons. The eye is drawn to the vertical, making this a flattering jacket style for men of shorter stature, although long jackets should be approached with caution by men with shorter legs. The length of the jacket tends to emphasise the torso, at the expense of leg length.

Mandarin suit styles aren't just for people whose roots lie in eastern lands. If you have an individualistic sense of style, or a dislike for conventional suits, then the great thing about this oriental style is that it is still unusual enough to make a bold statement. A big bonus for some men is this: with a mandarin collar, you simply can't add a tie, even if you want to, although you'll have to have appropriate shirts to wear these distinctive business suits with. If you want to make a slightly different fashion statement, this could be one of the suit styles that will help you do that.

E-kostym.com at www.mycustomtailor.com

Interview Attire

Interview attire is certain to be a critical element in the employer's first impression of you. Taking the extra time, energy and even costs to get this part right is paramount.Let's just suffice it to say, within the first 7-17 seconds of meeting you, the employer is formulating deep personal impressions of you that are terribly difficult to change. Take advantage of this and get your appearance right then we can talk about the other elements that affect the first impression.

As far as your interview attire, conservative and professional is the name of the game. Your goal is to look polished and be so appropriately dressed that the prospective employer notices your qualifications and not your distracting or poor choice of attire.

Business Suit:
Conservative colors and styles. Dark tones like charcoal grey or navy is recommended. If you don't own or wear suits on a regular basis it's probably best you avoid suits with patterns as matching patterns in suits, shirts & ties is an aquired skill for most men. In terms of style, single breasted two button is most simple and traditional and will fall in line with your conservative, professional look.

Dress Shirt:
Again, conservative and professional is the objective. For job interviews stick with the crisp white or blue dress shirt with a straight or traditional spread collars.

Tie:
The tie should obviously coordinate with your suit and shirt but it's also important not to overindulge here. Avoid big or busy patterns and overly loud or bright colors. In order to achieve our conservative, professional look, your tie has to be consistent with that theme. Be sure it's tied properly and that the length reaches the middle of your belt. Lower is too long and higher is too short.




Shoes:
Good leather oxfords (balmorals or bluchers), dark brown or black. Loafers can be acceptable but be sure to follow our rules for Loafers with Suits. Make sure your belt matches your shoes and make sure your shoes are polished and in good repair.

Socks:
Socks should be the same color as your trousers or darker. Be sure your socks are high enough to not show any leg when seated.

Grooming:
Well groomed! we're not here to tell you how long or short your hair should be or how much if any facial hair you should have. However, make darn sure you're trimmed, hair combed and neat, finger nails trimmed, nose, ear & brow hair trimmed. If your a scent man keep it to a minimum.

Accessories:
Accessories for men interviewing should not extend beyond a watch, glasses & ring. No earings or other peircings, exposed necklaces or braclets. Remember were conservative today!

Fit:
The last piece of advice we offer regarding interview attire is that your clothes fit. This seems to be a simple and obvious thing but many men try to get away with an emergency suit off the rack and/or that suit they have not worn in 4 years. Fit is vital in looking professional and put together. Too big and you look sloppy and immature, too tight and you'll look like it's been a while since you've done anything important enough to wear a suit. Be sure your clothes fit.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Elements Of Formal Clothing - Part 3

Single- vs. double-breasted jacket

Most single-breasted suits have two or three buttons, and one or four buttons are unusual. It is rare to find a suit with more than four buttons, although zoot suits can have as many as six or more due to their longer length. There is also variation in the placement and style of buttons, since the button placement is critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural waistline.

Double-breasted jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs. Some rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, and during various periods, for instance the 1960s and 70s, as many as eight were seen. Six buttons are typical, with two to button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line (the 'keystone' layout) or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square. A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square. The layout of the buttons and the shape of the lapel are co-ordinated in order to direct the eyes of an observer. For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger.

The custom that a man's coat should button "left side over right", anecdotally originates in the use of the sword, where such cut avoided catching the top of the weapon in the opening of the cloth (since the sword was usually drawn right-handed). Women's suits are buttoned "right side over left". A similar anecdotal story to explain this is that women were dressed by maids, and so the buttons were arranged for the convenience of their, typically, right-handed servants; men on the other hand dressed themselves and so the buttons were positioned to simplify that task.

Jacket lapel

A notched lapel
A peaked lapel
A shawl lapel

The jacket's lapels can be notched (also called "stepped"), peaked ("pointed"), shawl, or "trick" (Mandarin and other unconventional styles). Each lapel style carries different connotations, and is worn with different cuts of suit. Notched lapels are only found on single-breasted jackets and are the most informal style. Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels. Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for dinner suits.

In the 1980s, double-breasted suits with notched lapels were popular with power suits and the New Wave style.

In the late 1920s and 1930s, a design considered very stylish was the single-breasted peaked lapel jacket. This has gone in and out of vogue periodically, being popular once again during the 1970s, and is still a recognised alternative. The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors.

The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits, and has changed over the years. The 1930s and 1970s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late 1950s and most of the 1960s suits with very narrow lapels—often only about an inch wide—were in fashion. The 1980s saw mid-size lapels with a low gorge (the point on the jacket that forms the "notch" or "peak" between the collar and front lapel). Current (mid-2000s) trends are towards a narrower lapel and higher gorge.

Lapels also have a buttonhole, intended to hold a boutonni?re, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. Usually double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel (with a flower just on the left), while single-breasted suits have just one on the left.


Pockets

Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets, and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted pockets. The patch pocket is, with its single extra piece of cloth sewn directly onto the front of the jacket, a sporting option, sometimes seen on summer linen suits, or other informal styles. The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket. A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. This style is most often on seen on formalwear, such as a dinner jacket.

In addition to the standard two outer pockets, some suits have a third, the ticket pocket, usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide. While this was originally exclusively a feature of country suits, used for conveniently storing a train ticket, it is now seen on some town suits. Another country feature also worn sometimes in cities is a pair of hacking pockets, which are similar to normal ones, but slanted; this was originally designed to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while hacking.

Sleeves

Suit jackets in all styles typically have three or four buttons on each cuff, which are often purely decorative (the sleeve is sewn closed and cannot be unbuttoned to open). Five buttons are unusual and are a modern fashion innovation. The number of buttons is primarily a function of the formality of the suit; a very casual summer sports jacket might traditionally (1930s) have had only one button, while tweed suits typically have three and city suits four. In the 1970s, two buttons were seen on some city suits.Today, four buttons are common on most business suits and even casual suits.

Although the sleeve buttons usually cannot be undone, the stitching is such that it appears they could. Functional cuff buttons may be found on high-end or bespoke suits; this feature is called a surgeon's cuff. Some wearers leave these buttons undone to reveal that they can afford a bespoke suit, although it is proper to leave these buttons done up.Modern bespoke styles and high end off-the-rack suits equipped with surgeon's cuffs have the last two buttons stitched off-centre, so that the sleeve hangs more cleanly should the buttons ever be undone.

A cuffed sleeve has an extra length of fabric folded back over the arm, or just some piping or stitching above the buttons to allude to the edge of a cuff. This was popular in the Edwardian era, as a feature of formalwear such as frock coats carried over to informalwear, but is now rare.

Vents

A vent is a slit in the bottom rear (the "tail") of the jacket.Originally, vents were a sporting option, designed to make riding easier, so are traditional on hacking jackets, formal coats such as a morning coat, and, for reasons of pragmatism, overcoats. Today there are three styles of venting: the single-vented style (with one vent at the centre); the ventless style; and the double-vented style (one vent on each side). Vents are convenient, particularly when using a pocket or sitting down, to improve the hang of the jacket, so are now used on most jackets. Ventless jackets are associated with Italian tailoring, while the double-vented style is typically British.(This is not the case with all types of jackets. For instance, dinner jackets traditionally take no vents.)

Belted jackets

Suit jackets with belts on them became popular after World War I, especially on the exaggerated "jazz suits" which were popular in 1920 and 1921. After 1921, a more subdued style prevailed in which the belt was placed solely on the back of the coat, a half-belted back. This continued on many suit coats throughout the 1920s and early 1930s, usually on very fashionably made suits for the young. This style made a brief comeback in the 1970s when some suit coats again featured belts on the back.

E-tailor at www.mycusotomtailor.com

Elements Of Formal Clothing - Part 2

Parts of a suit

There are many possible variations in the choice of the style, the garments and the details of a suit.

The cut

The silhouette of a suit is its outline. No suit is skin-tight; the amount of extra fabric and the way it hangs is known as the drape. The shape of the front of the suit is particularly affected by the way the suit buttons. The two main cuts consist firstly of double-breasted suits, a conservative design with two vertical rows of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the left and right sides; and secondly, single-breasted suits, on which the sides just meet at the front down a single row of buttons.

British suits are characterised by moderately tapered sides, minimal shoulder padding, and two vents. Italian suits are characterised by strongly padded shoulders, strongly tapered sides, and no vent. American suits are considered more casual than the preceding styles, and are characterised by moderate shoulder padding, minimally tapered sides, and a single vent. The sack suit is a loose American style. Contemporary is a term that includes a variety of recently designed garments that do not fit into the preceding categories.

The suit is cut out from a length of fabric from a roll by a cutter using a cutting pattern, a paper outline of the parts. The pattern can be draughted in various ways. With a ready-to-wear suit, the same pattern is used many times to make identical suits. Made-to-measure and bespoke cutters can work by pattern manipulation, altering a stock pattern, or by using a drafting formula to calculate adjusted lengths. Some bespoke tailors work by "Rock Of Eye", drawing and cutting by eye.

Fabric

Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most commonly from wool. The two main yarns produce worsteds (where the fibres are combed before spinning) and woollens (where they are not). These can be woven in a number of ways producing flannel, tweed, gabardine, and fresco among others. These fabrics all have different weights and feel, and some fabrics have an S (or Super S) number describing the fineness of the fibres. Although wool has traditionally been associated with warm, bulky clothing meant for warding off cold weather, advances in making finer and finer fiber have made wool suits acceptable for warmer weather, as fabrics have accordingly become lighter and more supple. For hot weather, linen is also used, and in North America cotton seersucker is worn. Other materials are used sometimes, such as cashmere. Silk and silk blended with wool are sometimes used. Synthetic materials, while cheap, are very rarely recommended by experts.

The main four colours for suits worn in business are black, light grey, dark grey, and navy, either with or without patterns. In particular, grey flannel suiting has been worn very widely since the 1930s. In non-business settings or less-formal business contexts, brown is another important colour; olive also occurs. In summer, lighter shades, such as tan or cream, are popular.


For non-business use tweed has been popular since Victorian times, and still is commonly worn. A wide range of colour is available, including muted shades of green, brown, red, and grey.Tweeds are usually checked, or plain with a herringbone weave, and are most associated with the country. While full tweed suits are not worn by many now, the jackets are often worn as sports jackets with odd trousers (trousers of different cloth).

The most conventional, universally occurring suit is a 3-button navy blue suit, which can be worn either with matching trousers, or with different, lighter-colored trousers for a more casual look. Other conservative colors are greys, black, and olive. White and light blues are acceptable at some events, especially in the warm season. Red is usually considered "unconventional" and "garish". Tradition calls for a gentleman's suit to be of decidedly plain color, with splashes of bright color reserved for neckties, kerchiefs and, sometimes, hose.

In the US and UK, suits were never traditionally made in plain black, this colour instead being reserved for formal wear (including dinner jackets or strollers), and for undertakers. However, the decline of formal wear in recent years has meant that black, as well as being popular in fashionable scenes, such as clubbing, is now also being worn in formal contexts (such as to a funeral or religious function) in place of the traditional more formal wear.

Traditional business suits are generally in solid colours or with pin stripes; windowpane checks are also acceptable. Outside business, the range of acceptable patterns widens, with plaids such as the traditional glen plaid and herringbone, though apart from some very traditional environments such as London banking, these are worn for business now too. The colour of the patterned element (stripes, plaids, and checks) varies by gender and location. For example, bold checks, particularly with tweeds, have fallen out of use in America, while they continue to be worn as traditionally in Britain. Some unusual old patterns such as diamonds are now rare everywhere.

Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner lining, there is a layer of sturdy interfacing fabric to prevent the wool from stretching out of shape; this layer of cloth is called the canvas after the fabric from which it was traditionally made. Expensive jackets have a floating canvas, while cheaply manufactured models have a fused (glued) canvas. A fused canvas is less soft and, if poorly done, damages the suppleness and durability of the jacket, so many tailors are quick to deride fused canvas as being less durable. However, some selling this type of jacket claim that the difference in quality is very small. A few London tailors state that all bespoke suits should use a floating canvas.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Elements Of Formal Clothing - Part 1

Business Suits

The variations in design, cut, and cloth, such as two- and three- piece, or single- and double- breasted, determine the social and work suitability of the garment. Often, suits are worn, as is traditional, with a collared shirt and necktie.Until around the 1960s, as with all men's clothes, a hat would have been also worn when the wearer was outdoors. Suits also come with different numbers of pieces: a two-piece suit has a jacket and the trousers; a three piece adds a waistcoat; further pieces might include a matching flat cap.

Originally, as with most clothes, a tailor made the suit from his client's selected cloth; these are now often known as bespoke suits. The suit was custom made to the measurements, taste, and style of the man. Since the Industrial Revolution, most suits are mass-produced, and, as such, are sold as ready-to-wear garments (though alteration by a tailor prior to wearing is common). Currently, suits are sold in roughly three ways:


* bespoke, in which the garment is custom-made from a pattern created entirely from the customer's measurements, giving the best fit and free choice of fabric;
* made to measure, in which a pre-made pattern is modified to fit the customer, and a limited selection of options and fabrics is available;
* and finally ready-to-wear, which is least expensive and hence most common.

Main article: History of suits

The current styles were founded in the revolution during the early seventeenth century that sharply changed the elaborately embroidered and jewelled formal clothing into the simpler clothing of the British Regency period, which gradually evolved to the stark formality of the Victorian era. It was in the search for more comfort that the loosening of rules gave rise in the late nineteenth century to the modern lounge suit.

The word suit derives from the French suite, meaning "following", from some Late Latin derivative form of the Latin verb sequor = "I follow", because the component garments (jacket and trousers and waistcoat) follow each other and have the same cloth and colour and are worn together.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Elements Of Wool Overcoat

A wool coat can be an important investment. Wool coats come in a variety of shapes and forms, from business blazers to thick pea coats. The variety are vast, from Frock Coat, Top Coat, Pea Coat, Duffle Coat in luxirous wool, wool and cashmere, pure cashmere, camel hair in huge color range. Due to the variety of choices it may take some consideration to decide what type of coat is right for you. Some things to consider include the intended use of the coat, how cold it gets where you are, how long you want the coat to last, and how much you intend to spend on your new wool coat. With all these decisions, a tailor can assist you making the right choice.

As a fabric, wool has a number of advantages. Wool is naturally water resistant thanks to the lanolin it contains, although you may start to smell like a wet sheep if your wool coat gets too wet. Wool is also an excellent insulator, and a wool coat will keep you warm when other fibers might not. However, wool has a few disadvantages as well. If the fabric gets wet through, it will be very heavy and take a long time to dry. Most wool garments are also dry clean only, which can be expensive and time consuming. In addition, wool sometimes irritates the skin, and for this reason wool garments should be lined with silk, cotton, or another similar material so that the wool fibers will not cause itching.

Wool coats come in a number of weights. Some wool is light enough to be worn in the summer time in some areas, and can lend the wearer an air of style and sophistication. Thin wool tends to drape very well, making it extremely flattering on most figures. Thicker weights of wool are designed for overcoats and cold weather. Thicker wool will cause the figure to bulk out, which is an important thing to think about when buying a wool coat.


If you are a businessperson, you may want to consider a blazer or slim lined long wool coat. This type of coat could keep you warm and looking professional. Most wool blazers have a matching set of pants or skirt as well, so that you can maintain a well put together and matched look. Longer wool coats can be worn over a business suit and checked at the door or hung up in your office. In well heated buildings, this is a good option because it would allow you to wear lighter clothing underneath, and still be warm when you went outside.

If you are looking purely for warmth, a pea coat or another type of thick wool overcoat is worth investigating as well. Pea coats tend to have a more square cut, which could make you look more boxy. It is an excellent idea to try on several pea coats and find a fit which flatters you. Pea coats tend to be thick and lined, meaning that they will keep out most cold winds. When trying on an overcoat, try to wear multiple layers underneath it, so that you will get an accurate idea of how the wool coat will look and fit.

Generally, the more expensive the wool coat, the longer it will last. Sometimes you can get a deal on a quality wool coat: just be sure to look for solid, even stitching, strong well woven fabric, and 100% wool content. In thinner wool garments, a wool/cashmere or wool/silk mix would be acceptable as well. When you do decide to purchase an expensive wool coat, make sure it is custom tailored so that it fits you well.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com