A Mans Accessories

The sole of a man often reveals his soul. Shoes that are well polished, with heels that are not worn down and laces that aren’t frayed, are the mark of a man who is responsible and cares about details. Here’s how to set off on the right foot.

OXFORDS
It may be simple plain black leather with there to six sets of eyelets but oxford is the dressiest option for business. Just about the only statement you can make with an oxford is in the toe. Whether it’s narrow and traditional of the kind your father would select or rounder, with a thicker sole and slightly more hip, keep the [lain-toe oxford down. And buy a set shoe trees.

CAP-TOE OXFORD
A basic variation on the oxford shoe, the cap-toe has a horizontal stitch going across its tip. It’s a little more polished than its plain cousin. Unlike the plain oxford, the cap-toe usually comes with a narrow toe.

Use A BELT
Unless you’re suspenders kind of guy, you’re not fully dressed until you’re wearing a belt. Black leather is the way to go it matches the shoes and goes with just about everything you will ever buy. The belt itself should be about 1 ½” wide with a buckle that is modest and simple, either brass or silver. When fastened, it should come through the first loop on your pants. And make sure there’s one extra notch on it so you can loosen it after a big meal.

SAFE SOCKS
Okay, so socks are not the most exciting purchase you will ever make, but you still have to know a thing or two. Above all, you have to wear them. Stick with plain black dress socks, meaning they’re fairly thin and often vertically ribbed. They should be made of wool or cotton. Natural fibers breathe and absorb moisture better. Make sure they’re long enough to cover your shins when you cross your legs. No one wants to see your hairy legs!

NO-NONSENSE
Eye WearIf your glasses are too goofy or showy, you may be making a spectacle of yourself. Select a pair that is modest, businesslike, and fits your face - any good optician will see to that. Black or brown frames in metal or plastic work best. They should have a simple shape and the size of the frames should not overpower your face. The lenses should be clear, not tinted.

Watch
Every working man should wear a watch. It doesn’t cost much and you’ll show up early for your interview. If you don’t have the right watch, now’s the time. Either a leather strap or metal band is appropriate for work. If leather, select a smooth band in black, tan, or brown. With metal, consider stainless steel or gold , but don’t wear anything too flashy or sporty. A simple round or rectangular face is ideal. Save the digital for the gym.The watch should be easy to read, but not digital, which is too sporty. Round or rectangular face are equally appropriate. A versatile, stainless steel and gold combination matches both gold and silver jewelry. It should have a Date indicator. The strap can be an Integral bracelet. It should have a Light-colored background face. Try to use a band with links and not an expansion, band.If a watch is ROUND-FACED LEATHER strap it says CONSERVATIVE, PRACTICAL, NO-NONSENSE, STRAIGHT-FORWARD. A STAINLESS STEEL GOLD WATCH shouts DECORATIVE, OUTGOING, ASSERTIVE. Make sure to Check for proper fit. Watch should firmly grasp the wrist and not slide around like a bracelet. It should be a Single dial.An illuminating face would be an asset. The leather band should be a bit padded. Don’t supersize it!

From Dress Smart
We remain with Best Regards,
E-tialor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Wool Suitings - Worsteds, Super And More ....

An article about the basic cloths used in Savile Row tailoring.

There are all kinds of cloth material out there- wool, cashmere, vicuna etc. But for the moment I just want to let you know about the most widely-used cloth in the business, the classic "Wool Worsteds". This is the main cloth bespoke customers need to know about. These are used for about 90% of our business. The exotics I’ll cover at a later date.

English Wool Worsted is mostly woven in Yorkshire, Northern England and the English West Country. Like all crafts, there are smaller independents dotted around the UK, however the town of Huddersfield in Yorkshire has the big slice of the business.

Wool worsteds are usually made from Merino wool (which usually means Australian and New Zealand Merino sheep) and are supplied by all the London cloth merchants.Wool Worsteds are very popular for a reason- they make up very well, and with a little care they can last for years. I and most of my customers wear them for this very same reason.

They come in a wide range of qualities- but when you're buying a suit, make sure you know what definition of "quality" you're using.

Is it "quality" in terms of texture and design? Or is it about durability and strength? Again, always ask yourself “What’s the suit for?” Remember this, or you could end up spending a lot more money and feeling sorely disappointed.

Worsted cloth is rated by numbers. Super 100’s, Super 150’s and higher. These numbers refer to the count, or fineness of the yarn used in the cloth. The finer the count (measured in microns), the more wool is used per square inch of the cloth. Hence the higher the number, the finer and softer the cloth.

To qualify as a good, hard-wearing and attractive wool worsted, it must be rated at least in the upper 80’s and 90’s.

The Super 120’s and higher are beautiful cloths, but there’s a price to pay, and not only financial. Although they do feel wonderful, the simple fact is they don't wear very well. They're simply not as durable as their lesser-numbered cousins.

I know this seems a little tragic, but still, if money is no object and you want to feel the finest stuff against your skin, go for the Super 150’s. Or if it’s something special that you won’t wear too often, then go treat yourself.

The other advantage of high-number wool worsteds is, because of the finer yarns used, the weavers are able to get more colours and intricate designs into the fabric. This can make them wholly tempting as you gaze at them and stroke them, when the tailor is showing you a sample.

Rest assured, no Savile Row tailor is going to sell you an inferior cloth, as the result to his reputation would be utterly disastrous. But just remember the cost of cloth can differ vastly, and not all for the same reasons.

In summary, Super Numbers look and feel fantastic, but don’t wear as well, and can add 20-30% to the cost of your suit. Your more affordable, classic worsteds are usually made into the timeless designs- pin stripes, chalk stripes, Prince of Wales checks etc. So you'll always have room for them in your wardrobe. They make up well and last for years. The downside is the designs are far more standardized.

A word of advice. It’s very easy for some obscure manufacturer to produce a sample bunch with all sorts of fancy numbers and claims on it. And you'll find out the hard way, a year down the line when the suit starts falling apart, how exaggerated these claims were. No tailor will know all of the manufacturers in the world. But if you look out for these familiar names you can be pretty confident of what you're getting:

London-based to note are Scabal, Wain Shiell, Lessers, Dormeuil, and Holland & Sherry.

Some excellent out-of-town companies are Dugdale Bros., Lear Browne & Dunsford, and H.E. Box.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Proper Dressing For An Interview.

ENTICEMENT

All right, let’s deal with the simple gold hoop, the tasteful stud, a simple drop pendant, the feathered hand-carved wooden fetish original ear art picked up in Fiji is acceptable and do you wear it or not? It’s your call, just like goatees, beards, dreads, necklaces, and bracelets. Your freedom to wear what you choose is not in question but your right to have a particular job is in the eye of the beholder who is offering the job. If it’s important to you to express your individuality, then the employer who finds these elements uncomfortable will the opportunity the job offers is worth some self-adjustment, well, perhaps you can sacrifice some style points.

Shop smart
The first items you purchase for your career will make up the interview wardrobe. In the following field guide, we will break down the various elements that go into this wardrobe and explain how to get the most impact with the least amount of money.An interview suit needs to be bulletproof: Something that looks perfect on you and makes you feel confident and secure about the person who fills it out. When matched with a simple shirt-and-tie combination, the outfit should make you look like you’ve worked at the company for years.And, with any luck, you will.

How to Buy an Interview Suit
COLOR: Navy, its sophisticated enough to wear anywhere, any time, any season. And every other color gray, brown, red, green, even black mixes with it easily and effortlessly.

JACKET CUT:
Timeless style: Single-breasted, two-but-ton with medium lapels. Center vent or no vent, your call. The hem of the jacket should fall roughly where your fist ends when your arms hang down. The sleeves should allow for a ½” of shirt cuff to show. Shoulders should be padded to make you look formidable but not so much that you’re ready for the NFL.

PANTS:
There are only two decisions: Flat front or pleated? Each is perfectly appropriate in the workplace, but flat front is more slimming. The other choice is cuffs or no cuffs. There is on choice. Get your suit trousers cuffed: 1 ½”. This will give the pants the proper break at the instep.

FABRIC:
Wool is your only selection here, and worsted is best. It’s heavy enough to wear in colder weather and light enough for summer. This allows your suit to be as versatile as possible.

FIT:
Get the suit tailored properly, either in the store or by your local tailor. Before you see the tailor, though, walk around a bit, then stand in front of a three-way mirror and ask yourself a few questions: Can you button the jacket? Can you breathe when it’s buttoned? Can you move your arms comfortably? Does it bulge in the back? Can you sit in it? Do the pants have enough room in the waist? Too much? Is the seat too tight? Did you look at the price tag? When you’ve satisfied these criteria, you’re ready to buy your first suit.

Interview Wardrobe
What you wear on an interview doesn’t have to dazzle the person you’re meeting in fact, it’s probably best if he or she hardly even notices what you’re wearing. So what kind of impression are you had on? The appropriate one. In a suit with a simple shirt-and-tie combination you will be dressed smartly for an interview. Now you have to act it.

Suit Jacket: Since a suit is essentially the most expensive investment you will be making toward a new job, it pays to get your money’s worth. A navy suit will work harder than the other suits in the closet because the jacket can double as a blue blazer, giving you a greater return on your investment.

ALIGNMENT: If the buttons on the jacket don’t align when closed, it may not fit properly.

POCKETS: The best way to ensure that the suit pockets don’t bulge out? Don’t open them.

Suit Pants
WAIST: Even if you want to wear suspenders, always get a suit with belt loops.

PLEATS VS. FLAT: Pleated pants may be better suited for larger men, but flat-front trousers will be more slimming.

REAR VIEW: Have a tailor check to make sure the seat isn’t too snug or too baggy.SHIRTAs important as wearing the suit is to a man, a shirt and tie allow him to express his individuality. Select a shirt that sends the best message about who you are.

WHITE DRESS SHIRTKEY POINTS: Straight collar of medium length.Button cuffs. Broadcloth.There is on occasion for which a white shirt is inappropriate. It goes with everything from a sport jacket to khakis to jeans, and when paired with a suit it sends just the right message: Neat and efficient. A white shirt with this collar works with any face shape and any coloring, but it will all be in vain if it isn’t cleaned and pressed properly.

BLUE DRESS SHIRTKEY POINTS: Straight collar of medium length. Button cuffs. Made of end-on-end cotton, which faintly shows the cross-stitch weave. Like a white shirt, blue is an all-purpose choice. And in some ways it may be better. Whereas white may reveal certain conformity, a blue dress shirt signals that you are your own man, Once again, keep it clean and pressed, and wear a white T-shirt underneath to keep it dry.

TIES Perhaps nothing signals a man’s individuality more than a tie. In theory, you could wear the same suit and shirt every day-don’t-but by changing ties, it would all look new. And yet, men often get tied up in knots trying to decide what to buy.

BLUE PATTERNED SILK NECKITEA good rule to follow is this: The bolder the design, the bolder the personality.So be careful not to overpower someone with a wild pattern. A small, simple pattern a check, a dot, etc. is ideal. A tie with various blues in it may be the most versatile as you start to build your wardrobe.

STRIPED SILK NECKITEA preppy classic, the striped belongs in every man’s closet. The downward pattern and often bold colors can give a great lift to an otherwise staid outfit. Choose a striped tie with some navy red, green, or various shades in that range.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com